The blending of Roman and barbaric costume is traced to the fifth century. According to "Manners, Custom and Dress during the Middle Ages and During the Renaissance Period", Paul Lacroix and Sir Robert Naunton write, "The barbarian invasions brought about a revolution in the dress..." Although fashion did not have significant changes during the eighth and tenth centuries, fashion modification increased to the extent that by the end of the 14th century, the original attire from the fifth century had completely disappeared.
Under and Outer Garments
The Roman attire during the medieval period consisted of two garments. The under garment was referred to as a tunic and the outer garment, was known as the cloak.
The Tunic
Today’s blouse was derived from the tunic. The silhouette had sleeves and was also called by various names according to the difference in sleeve and shape. A tunic with long and wide sleeves was called a chiridota. The manuleata had long and tight sleeves to the wrist. The talaris silhouette had an extended length. The palmata was the state tunic and was embroidered with palms and other ornamentation throughout the tunic.
The Cloaks
Outer garments such as mantles and cloaks were made with and without hoods. Lacroix and Naunton also write, "The cloak…was known under various names of chlamys, toga and pallium." These different names referred to altered shapes which were derived from the cloak.
Upper Garments
Garments worn over the tunic were referred to as upper garments as well as the lacerna, loena, cucullus, sagum and paludamentum. The upper garments were generally short in length. The silhouette was made in two different ways. Draped fabric added fullness to the silhouette and less fabric was used for a slightly contoured shape.
T-Shirt
Today’s t-shirt industry is traced back to the 7th century. According to Blanche Payne in "History of Costume," "On a bronze bowl of the early 7th century B.C., figures representing…a hunter and a warrior…show…the short loin skirt…also a short t-shirt."
Medieval Pants
The braies, which is the term for medieval pants, were part of men’s fashion. The garment was generally worn with chausses which today are referred to as leggings. The two garments were usually tied at the waistband, producing natural fabric folds which today are referred to as shirring or gathers.
The Clavi
As the Etruscans migrated from Asia Minor to the Italian peninsula towards the end of the ninth century, the fashion influences from Mesopotamia, Egypt and Crete continued to blend. The clavi, which are vertical borders, were originally worn by the Etruscans on long tunics. The Romans adopted this detail which became a status symbol and then decoration. The trimming market today produces wide embroidered taping borders to embellish apparel as well as accessories.
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